Because the Bulletin Board is again being heavily spammed, I have closed it for a while, until I can sort out a defence. This might mean some sort of registration, or sign in code.
Meanwhile, the current and interesting material from the Board, has been transcribed below.
I'm considering buying a colvic watson 34.
I cannot find any information about her fuel consumption or what speed she will
do under sail.
Any information would be much appreciated
Thank you
Keith Goggin.
Has anyone got any ideas on replacing an old Thorneycroft
2.5 diesel in a 28.6ft Watson. Is there any other which could replace it without
too much changing of skin fittings, and does the doghouse roof have to be cut
open to permit the lifting and replacement of The engine.
Thanks in anticipation.
Both Colin Jones and I replaced
the engines in our 28ft6" CWs with the 50hp Beta BV2203 model (my previous
engine certainly was a Thorny, can't remember about Colin's). Colin has
regularly written about how delighted he is with his - and he uses his boat very
extensively so has the engine hours to make a good judgement. So far I fully
agree but, in all fairness, my boat has been in the water so little since
fitting the new engine (owing to other refurbishment work) that it would be
rather unfair to judge it yet. I also replaced the gearbox - it was in much
worse condition than the engine - and chose the PMR option at extra cost; again,
so far, I am very happy with that choice.
In my case I did not have to alter
any skin fittings beyond replacement of like-for-like on age grounds - the
existing positions and sizes were fine for the new installation. The engineer
had to reposition the engine mounts but only by moving them along the same
bearers. All the piping was replaced but that seemed only sensible on a 23 year
old installation whilst we had the luxury of totally clear access. Obviously it
all depends on your having a good installation for the old engine in the first
place. I found that the new panel for the Beta (I went for the largest one with
all the gauges) was slightly larger than the old one so it was a case of
enlarging the hole rather than having to cover up gaps. However, the next season
I then went and remodelled the entire area in front of the wheel so I started
afresh anyway!
As to getting the engine out, that
depends on the exact layout of your boat. In Colin's case I gather he was able
to bring the strop from a crane in through the roof hatch, lift the engine into
the wheelhouse, support it temporarily to allow removal of the strop, and
manually manoeuvre it through the door into the cockpit. In my case, although I
had the roof hatch and the same principle ought to have worked, the yard staff
measured it very carefully and determined that it wouldn't fit through the
doorway without some major dismantling in situ so they had to cut an access
through the roof (very carefully) and replace it afterwards. I guess it depends
on the doorway - this is one part of the wheelhouse which is non-standard even
it you have the Colvic moulded roof, since the wheelhouse mouldings do not
include the aft bulkhead, and builders do their own thing. Of course, if you
don't have a roof hatch in the first place, you are likely to have to make a
hole to allow crane strop access, unless you can rig up some temporary frame
within the wheelhouse to allow you to hang a tackle or winch.
Posted by paul erne on February 04, 2006 at 00:53:51:
Has anybody out there sailed their CW across the
Autopilot ? Self steering ? Two of us will obviously need half the stores but
would a crew of 4 be easier and more fun ? And what is a CW like on a long
passage ? And should we turn around in the Carribean and come back or carry on
westwards ? Has anyone completed a circumnavigation in a CW yet ?
Yes, we are possibly slightly mad but life is for living and although we will
be one of the smallest boats in the fleet the
And would anyone care to join us with their CW ?
Any advice apart from don't do it will be very gratefully received.
HI Paul,
In 1997 my wife and I set off dor what turned out to be a 2 1/2 year trip from
NEWS OF OTHER COLVIC WATSONS
From Doug Jones, with the Site Manager's sincere thanks.
SEVERN
MAGPIE
Severn Magpie
was built in 1978. Mr Luxton who is
a shipwright based in Gloucestershire purchased the hull, and he fitted it out
to a very high standard for himself.
The hull is C.W.
28.5 ft but all the rest of the boat is not to C.W. design, the decks and works
above the deck level are carried out in 1 inch marine ply which has been treated
externally with fibre glass resign.
The external
varnished wood work i.e gunwales, handrails etc are all teak.
Just a note on
teak, I have tried many types of varnish, all of which last from 6 months to a
year before splitting and allowing water to penetrate the wood. I now use a
French varnish called Le Tonkinois, obtainable from Traditional Boats in
Suffolk, which I have found to be very good, the varnish work done 2 years ago
is still in near perfect condition
The inside of
the boat is all varnish applied to marine grade mahogany faced ply.
The deck beams, which are mahogany still have the original varnish which
is still as good as new, as is most of the internal wood work.
The timber
gunwales, beam shelves, deck head beams and general timber work is of hard
woods, which is generally very much over sized, in fact she is built like a
brick s... house.
The main mast
was installed by myself in 2001, until then she only had the mizzen mast.
Before
the main mast was fitted I was able to contact Mr Luxton to ask if the extra
beams and supports to the hull had been fitted when he fitted her out, I was
informed by him that she had more than enough support to take a 30ft mast.
I therefore
fitted a mahogany plate to the cabin top and bolted this and the tabernacle down
through 2no 3x2 inch deck head beams.
While fitting
the chain plates I had to drill through the external 3x2 inch teak gunwale,
hull, and 3x3 inch internal beam shelf, and was amazed to find that the hull was
about 1 inch thick, don’t make ‘em like that to-day!
By adding the
main mast and roller reefing jib she sails very well, and is balanced as well as
most yachts. On a tack or reach you
can leave the wheel for minutes and she stays in the slot,which is very handy as
I sail single handed 98% of the time.
With regard to
sailing single handed she is a very sea kindly boat and handles very easily
under motor or sail, all the sail controls are in the aft cockpit,so no need to
go out on deck.
Magpie is a
very steady boat due to the large bilge keels fitted. I have sailed in a
C.W.28.5ft which had no bilge keels and there is a big difference between the
two, infact the owner of the aforementioned boat, who has also sailed in Magpie
intends to have b/keels fitted when he has her taken out this winter.(if
interested I will send some photos of the keels when Magpie comes out this year)
Being single
handed I manage to moor up to the marina pontoon quite easily by having a cleat
amidships on the gunwale,and a rope fixed to the pontoon. I can come along
side,nip off and secure the rope to the cleat, pulling the boat tight into the
jetty,the rope is placed so that when tight
the boat is in the exact position to put the mooring ropes on. On that single
rope she will sit there as long as you like.
The single
handed sailing is a result of the fact that ‘her indoors’ hates any type of
boating, the last royal visit we had was about 3 years ago for an afternoon.
The engine was
replaced about 4 years ago, as the
old B.M.C 2.2, like some one else’s we know, gave up the ghost, it was
replaced with a Nissan marine engine LD 20 being a 55hp unit. At first we had a
lot of trouble with it. The
engineer who installed it could not get the fuel pump to work correctly, this
was changed by the supplier, but the replacement also would not work.
The supplier suggested that the engineer should try to have the problem
solved, also the injectors checked. The
unit was sent to a company in Surrey who checked out the pump on a computer and
returned a fully working unit to me, also 3 injectors were reset.
Since the first
hiccup the engine runs as sweet as a nut, and has never been a problem since.
As for cruises
I do not sail very far being single handed, not that I want to go far. I get
enjoyment just sailing locally, working on her when I like, having a kip when I
want to, and the odd visit to the local pub.N.B. I never take the boat out after
a drink!
All in all any
one wanting a good safe and sea kindly boat can in my opinion do no better than
a well fitted out Colvic Watson. You
look after her and she will look after you.
Doug.Jones
21/10/2004
IN THE TEXT, TOM HAS ASKED A SERIES OF QUESTIONS. I AM SURE THAT OTHER OWNERS WILL BE ABLE TO HELP HIM.
IF
YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS, EITHER POST THEM ON THE BULLETIN BOARD, OR LET ME HAVE
THEM AS EMAIL AND I WILL ADD THEM TO THE FOOT OF TOM’S ARTICLE.
[CJ]
Looks like I find myself a Colvic Watson 28.5 owner!
Went up to Anglesey a few weeks ago to view the boat and bought her very soon
afterwards. She is an absolute babe – in the Colvic chug-along way – but in
need of the odd spot of work. Wish I had been able to see her getting towed
around the M25 to Littlehampton where she is now on the hard – that is
probably the fastest the boat will ever go!
I am getting a new rudder fitted in Littlehampton, and have just put a deposit down on a new Lancing Marine 40hp diesel engine. Next I need to refit all the deck fittings as they do not have the backing they need. Already I have started trying to fix her up inside – but this is going to be a long job. I am seriously considering gutting the cabin and starting again. Anyone know where you can get readymade kitchen/galley units? Mine look tired and very untidy. They could also be set back further to the wall to increase floor space – but Ia m not sure if I will have the requisite time, skill or cash. Guess that is the perennial issue with this kind of project.
Other jobs I am yet to consider are getting new fendering D section fitted around the sides of the boat, and then there is the small consideration of a whole new rig. Oh…. And the various rotten bits of wood….
OK – so it’s more than the odd spot of work – but when it is sorted it will be a real beauty. Once the Eberspacher is working and the gas system sorted it will be wonderfully toasty in that tubby interior. Am considering a small charcoal stove but seems a bit excessive given the space constraints. I’m hoping to have her on the water by April. May sounds more likely. Questions for other CW owners I have are:
1) There are no timber joists to strengthen the hull above the level of ballast. Bulwarks and interior fittings must provide some strength, but does that mean these cant be removed?
2) How seriously are taking the new gas restrictions? Can a gas bottle vent out onto the cockpit (if installed in wheelhouse locker). Do we really need to have the gas stoves that self extinguish as the surveyor writes?
3) How much ventilation does a wheelhouse need – mine has none?
4) What is the best way of dealing with the fact that the traditional CW main saloon has a lack of floor space, and space to slouch back – any good redesigns people would recommend?
5) Has anyone got a good idea who will insure the vessel cheaply?
6) My boat has a long keel with a steel shoe. The last owner said she held a beautiful line in the water. Are bilge plates really preferable?
Anyone got any pictures of possible interior designs and the way they have their engine compartment organised? Any other CW advice? Meanwhile I will place on the site some images of the boat now – so you can have the whole "before and after" effect. Meanwhile, I have the odd spot of work to do....
Tom, owner of Whisky Mac, Brighton. Thomas@scalway.fsnet.co.uk